Millinery Glossary FAQs
Hat and Fascinator Terms Explained
I explain common millinery terms in plain English so you can understand hat styles, materials and fittings with confidence. If you’re new to occasion headwear, this glossary makes it much easier to choose a wedding hat that feels comfortable, flattering and appropriate. It’s a quick reference you can dip into before booking a consultation or ordering online.
Next steps: If you’re not sure where to start, see my Wedding Hat Advice. For colour confidence, visit Colour and Outfit Matching. If you’re considering commissioning a hat, read my Bespoke Consultation Process, then explore my Bespoke Hat Portfolio. If you need something sooner, browse Ready-to-Wear. If you’d like personal help, please use my Contact page.
What is a Consultation?
A consultation is a private appointment with me (in my Rose Garden Studio or virtually online) where we explore hat shapes, styles, colours, trims and fit before you commission a hat. Consultations usually last about an hour.
What is Virtual Consultation?
A virtual consultation is a remote appointment using video and photos. It covers style advice, measurements and colour approvals, and I can post swatches if needed.
What is a Fitting?
A fitting is a second session with me in my Rose Garden Studio to check the balance, tilt, comfort and security of your hat, with minor adjustments as needed.
What is Sustainable Sourcing?
Sustainable sourcing, for me, means making thoughtful choices that reduce waste and favour local, well-made materials. I prioritise UK suppliers to keep transport miles down, choose natural, durable materials where possible, and order in small batches to avoid overproduction. I re-use off-cuts in samples and trimmings, and I pack finished hats in recyclable, plastic-free packaging. My aim is simple: a beautifully made hat, crafted in Winchester, with as little waste as possible.
What is Millinery?
Millinery is the art and craft of designing, constructing and finishing women’s hats and headpieces.
What is Proportion?
Proportion is the relationship between the crown, brim and trim and the wearer’s features, hairstyle and outfit. In my studio, I consider proportion carefully so the hat flatters you and harmonises with your overall look.
What is Balance?
Balance is the visual and physical “rightness” of a hat on the head, so it looks natural and feels secure.
What is a Crown?
The crown is the main body of the hat that sits on the head. Its height and shape influence the overall proportion.
What is a Brim?
A brim is the projecting edge that frames the face. The width affects balance, proportion and visibility.
What is Headpiece Base (Diameter)?
The headpiece base is the solid foundation of a headpiece. For Royal Enclosure eligibility at Royal Ascot, the base must be at least 10 cm (4”).
What is a Percher or Perching Hat?
This is a small, sculptural hat worn forward or to one side at a flattering tilt, usually secured with elastic and/or a comb.
What is a Pillbox?
A pillbox is a small, brimless, rounded hat worn either on the back of the crown or perching slightly forward and held securely with elastic - a timeless and chic look.
What is a Hatinator?
A hatinator is a fairly new term, describing a hybrid between a hat and a fascinator, typically being a shallow saucer-style base on a metal headband. It can be adorned with an abundance of decorative trims or kept simple.
What is a Fascinator?
A fascinator is a light headpiece mounted on a comb, clip or Alice band. Many formal dress codes do not classify it as a ‘hat’ if the base (the area touching the head) measures less than 10cm (4”).
What is Veiling?
Veiling is a fine net used as trim or a partial face covering to add texture and classic elegance. Birdcage veiling is very popular because of its open weave and self-supporting nature, allowing designs to feature visual volume without very much extra weight.
What is Trim?
Trim means the decorative elements added to a hat, such as ribbons, silk bands, bows, veiling, crystals, curls and feathers.
What is Sinamay?
Sinamay is a lightweight, open-weave fibre that feels crisp, airy and sculptable. I usually create my hats with three layers of sinamay to strengthen the form and give the piece a refined finish.
What is Felt?
Felt is a dense material (often wool or a fur blend) suited to sculptural hat shapes for cooler seasons.
What is Bias Binding?
Bias binding is a fabric strip cut on the bias (diagonally across the fabric grain) and hand-stitched along an edge (for example, a brim) to give a smooth, curvaceous finish.
What is a Headband?
A headband is a slim band (often springy metal wrapped in ribbon) used to support and stabilise lighter headpieces or hatinators.
What is a Comb?
A comb is a small toothed fixing, sewn into the hat to help anchor it into styled hair.
What is Millinery Elastic?
Millinery elastic is a fine elastic hidden under the hairline at the nape of the neck, to discreetly secure percher and perching pillbox styles.
What is a Hat Box?
A hat box is a cardboard protective container, supplied with acid-free tissue for safe storage and travel with your new hat.
What is Acid-Free Tissue?
Acid-free tissue is archival tissue paper used to support a hat’s shape and help prevent discolouration during storage.
What is Aftercare?
Aftercare is guidance on storing, cleaning and maintaining a hat so it keeps its shape, colour and trims after you’ve worn it to your event.
What is the Travel Advice for hats?
My travel advice is to carry hats as hand luggage and to keep boxes flat as much as possible. When requested, I supply my hats in ‘travel boxes’ that normally meet the acceptable dimensions as carry-on luggage for most airlines (please verify with your own particular carrier), ensuring that all of the delicate parts (e.g., the inside of the bow lobes) are protected and supported by the acid-free tissue paper in which I pack your new hat. Alternatively, many customers have opted for a smaller perching pillbox-style hat to wear to their daughter’s destination wedding, and after taking it home in the hatbox I have provided, they transfer it into a plastic food container and nestle it into the centre of their luggage, so that it can travel safely in the hold of the aircraft.
What is the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot?
The Royal Enclosure is the most formal enclosure at Royal Ascot, with the strictest headwear rules for base size and style.
What are the dress code rules for hats at Royal Ascot, especially in the Royal Enclosure?
In the Royal Enclosure, formal race-day standards require a hat or headpiece base of at least 10 cm (4 inches), and fascinators are not permitted. All of my Ready-to-Wear and many of my bespoke hat samples are designed to meet the Royal Enclosure Dress Code for Ladies Day at Royal Ascot.
What is Face-Shape Guidance?
Face-shape guidance is matching styles to features, for example a percher or pillbox suits many faces, and wide brims can balance taller statures.
What is a Mother of the Bride Hat?
A Mother of the Bride hat is an elegant, event-appropriate design that complements the outfit without upstaging the bride. It is normally the most eye-catching and memorable hat at the wedding.
What is an AI Lifestyle Image?
An AI lifestyle image is how I combine photography and AI imagery so you get both accuracy and inspiration. I photograph every hat that I create in my Rose Garden Studio in Winchester, so you can see the actual piece from several angles before you buy. From time to time, I also use carefully controlled AI-assisted lifestyle images that place my real hat designs onto a model in a garden, country house or city setting, simply to help you imagine how a style might look when worn. The hats are always real designs from my Winchester studio - only the model and background are computer-generated. Whenever an AI-assisted lifestyle image appears on my website, I clearly label it, and you will always see traditional studio photographs of the actual hat on the same page.